Discussion On The Development Trend Of Functional Textiles

　　进行功能性纺织品的开发，首先应以市场需求为导向，聚焦功能性产品本身，真正从工艺、技术、设计、材料等基础出发，针对不同终端应用领域、不同产品品类，生产消费者真正需要的产品，提供更好的生活方式解决方案；其次应以多学科、多领域的技术创新为支撑，善于统筹考虑各种影响因素，使纤维、纱线、织物的性能在纺织品中充分发挥，有助于功能性纺织品的顺利开发；继而在设计上融合时尚，应用最新权威发布的流行趋势，或从色彩、图案、外观造型进行创新设计，或着力于文化内涵与个性表达，契合当下生活方式的同时，起到引领消费需求的积极作用；最后在生产中坚持可持续标准，综合考量生态环境变量，将生态环保特性看作是提高产品市场竞争力的一个重要因素，生产出既对环境友好，又能满足人需求的功能性纺织品。

1, functional composite

With the continuous development of new raw material preparation, weaving and finishing technology and the improvement of people's requirements, the transformation of single functional products to multi-functional composite becomes an inevitable trend. Multi functional composite will enable textile products to develop in a deep and high-grade way, not only to overcome the shortcomings of the textile itself, but also to give the textile multi-function.

In practical application, Swiss Schoeller has introduced a Ecorepel finishing fabric, which has not only waterproof and antifouling functions, but also keeps the fabric surface dry and clean. It also has good moisture absorption, permeability, soft handle and super abrasion resistance. It can also achieve biodegradation. It is an environmental friendly sports fabric with a variety of functions. Zhejiang Mei Xinda launches waterproof and antibacterial composite functional fabric, its antibacterial ingredients are pure natural plant extract, waterproof component is C6 environmental protection waterproofing agent, antibacterial and waterproof effect is excellent. Shirts on different clothing parts or with ironing, waterproof, oil, antifouling, easy to decontamination, moisture absorption and breathability, easy to stain, collar and cuff, and difficult to wash, using liquid ammonia crosslinking + three anti decontamination fabrics; pre meal easy to smear oil and stain, using liquid ammonia crosslinking + nano three anti + Fresh finishing fabric; rear and sleeve activities easy to fold and sweat, using liquid ammonia crosslinking and non iron + absorbent fast dry cotton fabric; meanwhile, the first self decontamination function fabric combination production technology, with reduced clothing handling times, extend the use of clothing time, and reduce the amount of detergent and washing water consumption and other environmental protection functions. The energy saving and environmental protection multifunctional shirt developed by Shandong ludai has been realized in the same piece. The 361 degree (China) Co., Ltd.'s "Silver Age" outdoor hot cotton clothing is treated by heat sealing technology in the back, hat and sleeve parts, and has the effect of waterproofing. An intelligent temperature control component is added to the spine and waist position, the carbon nanotube heating sheet is supplied by the charging power, and the temperature is adjusted through the buttons of the mobile phone APP or the clothing; in addition, the product fabric and the reed are all recycled polyester fiber, and the packing adopts environmentally-friendly cotton certified by the global recovery standard GRS, which meets the consumers' needs for outdoor functions and ecological environmental protection high quality products.

　　 Rousse multifunctional shirt

　　 "Silver Age" outdoor hot cotton clothes

2. Ecological processing.

Sustainable environmentally friendly fabrics and cleaner production processes will continue to affect the design and production of functional products. Natural fibers, bio based fibers, dyed fibers of raw liquor, recycled fiber and other green fibers are gradually being favored by functional products. The new dyeing and finishing method with less pollution and low energy consumption is also the development direction of functional products in the future. For the functional textiles market, the requirements for Eco sustainable sports products are not only limited to the use of environmental protection fabrics, but also have strict requirements for the cleanliness of their garment production process. At the same time, we need to emphasize the comfort and compound functionality of environmental friendly products.

In terms of environmentally friendly functional fibers, in order to cater for the development trend of green environment, Rhodia (Rhodia) has launched the world's first biodegradable functional nylon 66 product, Amni Soul Eco, in addition to its soft touch, good comfort and breathability, humidity regulation, easy to handle and washable functions. The clothes made of it can be quickly decomposed in landfills after being discarded. It takes about 3 years to be absorbed by the soil. The product not only passed Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX ITMA2015 certification, but also entered the "ITMA2015 future material award". The Coolmax EcoMade regenerated functional polyester fiber is applied to denim fabric to make jeans more eco-friendly and comfortable. On the one hand, it can keep sweat away from the skin, keep cool, comfortable and dry. On the other hand, it can keep clothes dry and breathable, reduce the smell, and greatly reduce the frequency of washing. The 100% bio based poly lactic acid fiber developed by Shanghai Defu Lun Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd. is divided into the series of Rhizoma Bletillae raw liquor coloring, special section, special coating and corresponding crimp. It has excellent functions such as moisture absorption, quick drying and anti pilling. The regenerated antibacterial and anti mites polyester polyester chips are produced by melt spinning, and online addition of chrysanthemum ester active ingredients can effectively prevent dust mites regeneration and bacteria growth.

　　 Polylactic acid fiber and yarn

In the aspect of environmental friendly functional auxiliaries, fluorine free waterproofing products are the focus of research and application. Huntsman (Huntsman) has introduced a new generation of Teflon EcoElite fluorine free waterproofing agent product, ZELAN, R3, which is extracted from plants and has a raw material content of 60%. The product has not only obtained very stringent textile environmental standards, but also has been recognized by the Swiss Blue Label (Bluesign Bluesign). Its performance has also reached the leading level of similar products. It has little effect on the phenolic yellow change of whitening fabrics, and is compatible with subsequent coating, laminating and so on. It has excellent waterproof performance on all kinds of fibers, and high endurance water repellent properties, at least 30 times of washing. The fourth generation of the new generation of environmentally-friendly C6 waterproofing products without APEO, PFOA and PFOS components introduced by DAIKIN has changed the shortcomings of the traditional short chain C6 waterproofing products, so that the short chain C6 waterproof products can better orientate on the fabric surface, so that the static waterproofing and dynamic waterproofing effect can reach the waterproof level of the C8 waterproof products, even if used in high and high density products, it can also achieve very good waterproof effect. In addition, the environmental protection and waterproofing new products made by PFBS of the US 3M company have been listed. Japan's Asahi Group Co., Ltd. has launched the series of high durable fluorine-resistant waterproofing and oil repellent AGE550D products that meet the requirements of the European Union. Rudolf (Rudolf), Chuang Hua, Guangzhou Lian Zhuang, Germany and the United States have also launched their own high-performance C6 series waterproof products, such as PFOS, PFOA and APEO.

　　 Waterproofing and antifouling effect after 30 times of fabric washing with ZELAN R3

　　 Waterproof effect of fabric treated with Daikin C6 waterproofing agent

In regard to the development of environmentally friendly functional fabrics, Zhejiang Mei Xinda adopts the 3X DRY Bio functional finishing technology of Switzerland Schoeller company to introduce waterproof and breathable fabrics without PFC (perfluorocarbon), its fast drying speed is 6 times faster than that of conventional fabrics, and its washability is good. Shanghai Wo Wo outdoor multifunctional wool dress products, warp and weft yarn are made of optim Max wool fabric processed by stretching technology. After dyeing and finishing, the stress inside the fiber is disappeared and contracted, and the entanglement between fibers becomes more compact. The surface is compact, smooth and clear texture effect, and has natural natural wind and rain proof properties. It can cope with different weather changes in nature, and is specially built for sports and outdoor markets. The wrinkle resistant travel suit developed by Ruyi, Shandong, has both environmental protection, function and practicality. The fabric is not only of fine quality, but also has no choice of raw material for tail wool. It has a good ecological design concept by adopting low temperature dyeing process. The garments are designed with no lining, highlighting the drape and crease resistance of fabrics. The elastic sewing thread, which is made of polyester and nylon, is preferred. It has high strength, elasticity, abrasion resistance and good moisture and heat stability, and ensures the smoothness and crease resistance of the garment suture. The formaldehyde free, easy to iron and easy decontamination finishing technology developed by Lu Tai, Shandong, has a wrinkle resistant performance on the surface of pure cotton yarn. The pollution-free physical treatment method makes the pure cotton fabric warp and weft to the natural projectile and enhances the yarn's hydrophilicity. According to the liquid ammonia finishing technology, a new cross-linking finishing technology with energy saving and emission reduction has been developed, which improves the fabric's ironing performance at low temperature and has the characteristics of same bath and baking temperature. The fabric has the properties of iron free (up to 3.5 grade), formaldehyde free and easy to decontamination, and energy conservation and water saving in the process of production and use, in line with the development direction of ecological, environmental protection and energy saving.

　　 Wo Wo outdoor multifunctional woolen garment

3, fashion design

With the continuous development of consumer demand towards diversification, differentiation and individuation, consumers are paying attention to product prices and quality, and begin to focus on consumption experience and cultural expression. Market demand for service, customization and entertainment has become a trend. In addition to the pursuit of functional and practical textiles, fashion products are becoming more and more popular. In this trend, the development of textile products has begun to pay more attention to the combination of technology and fashion, pay attention to the guiding role of fashion trends to consumers. Through the comprehensive use of national patterns, digital printing, fluorescent colors and other design elements, we have made innovative designs on the excellent characteristics of functional fabrics, so that functional products are closely linked with comfort, leisure and fashion.

In the field of safety protection, the multi-function fire blanket developed by Shanghai Teon Fiber Co., Ltd. uses polysulfonamide fiber T500 series as the main body to match the flame retardant viscose, and optimizes the spinnability of the polysulfonamide fiber, making the fabric surface smooth, easy to finish processing and printing; developing digital printing technology for high performance fibers such as polysulfonamide and so on, ensuring the color fastness, rubbing fastness and water washing fastness to meet the national standard; the design adopts the classic Oriental elements, and combines the printing with manual embroidery to make the products beautiful and fashionable.

　　 Multifunctional fire blanket

In the field of smart textiles, the first user controlled color changing fabric Chromorphous was launched at Centre College in Florida. Every yarn in the fabric contains micro guide wire and discolourant pigment. When the current passes through the micro conductor, the discoloring pigment changes its color to respond to the temperature changes caused by the current. Users can use the smart phone application to control the color and pattern changes. The famous fashion Brand Company CuteCircuit has launched the smart clothing Twitter dress. Its lining is made of luxurious velvet fabric. The outer side is made of laser etching acrylic mirror. It can make the light emitted by the white LED pass through, creating amazing animation effect and displaying relevant word information.

　　 Handbag with color changing fabric Chromorphous controlled by users

　　 CuteCircuit Twitter dress smart clothing

4. Application of intellectualization

The textile industry "13th Five-Year" outline of scientific and technological progress pointed out that we should "study the mechanism of multiple structure design and control of intelligent textile materials, develop wearable electronic components, and accelerate the development of smart textiles". Focusing on the needs of contemporary people's lives, health, human body development, and the needs of national economic and social development and national defense construction, we should constantly break through the key technologies of intelligent textile materials, such as flexible sensors, intelligent temperature regulation, intelligent shape memory, intelligent discoloration, micro nano devices and embedded fabrics, and actively expand the application of intelligent textile materials in the field of wearable, household and industrial textiles. The concrete points can be summarized from the following four points.

First, we should build a new generation of excellent intelligent temperature regulating textile materials, basically solve the problems of durability and poor washing resistance, improve the wearability of intelligent temperature regulating textile materials, realize automation and partial intellectualization of the production of intelligent temperature regulating textiles in the main links of processing and manufacturing, and at the same time build the standard system of intelligent temperature regulating textile industry, and gradually improve the quality management.

Second, developing shape memory materials with different shapes, reaction time, excitation temperature and restoring force, and a variety of shape memory yarns and fabrics, etc., so as to realize the design of non-toxic, green environmental protection materials, the development of high memory products and batch production of shape memory textiles, so as to realize the omnidirectional optimization of the original shape memory textiles and improve the production efficiency and accuracy of shape memory fibers.

Third, we should accelerate the research on the mechanism of light / heat / electricity / Chromism materials, break through the preparation technology of highly effective and stable intelligent color changing textiles, develop a new generation of high sensitivity intelligent color changing textile materials, develop the core technology of intelligent production, and establish intelligent optimization system of intelligent color changing textile material manufacturing process, so as to reduce engineering changes, increase production efficiency, reduce cost and energy consumption.

Fourth, combined with the latest integrated technology of micro and nano devices, the latest flexible electronic device technology can realize the functions of textile material communication, self generating electricity storage and real-time detection of human body signals, and effectively solve the problems of comfort, durability, washability and so on. It realizes the automation and partial intelligence of intelligent textile material production, establishes the manufacturing demonstration base and comprehensive application evaluation system of intelligent textile materials, and guides the development and application of functional intelligent integrated textile materials.

5, product standardization

The standard is the technological foundation support of industrial development, and is one of the important technical bases for testing, certification, metrology and quality supervision. To promote the high quality development of functional textiles, the textile industry development plan (2016 - 2020) pointed out that we should further strengthen the revision of the standard of functional textiles, standardize the product certification and identification management system of ecological, green, functional textiles, and carry out international standard benchmarking and physical quality comparison activities for functional products.

The evaluation and identification of functional textiles only follow the requirements of standards and regulations, so as to create a healthy and trusted market environment, which is also the proper meaning of the development of the industry. The evaluation of functional textiles should be based on the standard of functional textile products. In the absence of product standards, the corresponding functional method standards should be the basis. Functional labels for textiles need to be justifiable. In other words, the functionality of the declaration must be clearly supported by corresponding standards. For example, in the field of mosquito repellent function finishing, Zhejiang EULAN SPA01 ECHA finishing agent not only passed the ECHA test of the European Chemicals administration, the detection of harmful substances in textiles, Standard100 by OEKO-TEX certification, and the EU biocide regulation BPR certification, but also passed the SGS acute oral toxicity test and skin irritation test to ensure that the finished garments were safe and untouched, achieving the unity of functionality and safety.